Thursday 2 February 2017

Where Alexander the Great was welcomed …!!!



Islamabad is said to be a barren place regarding culture and heritage because the capital city of Pakistan has no history or historical background.

Before May 24, 1960, when President of Pakistan Field Marshal Muhammad Ayub Khan approved master plan and laid foundation of this city, there was a massive jungle with some parasitic small villages like Saidpur, Golra, Noorpur Shahan, Shah Allah Ditta Village, home of Syed Mehmood Shah, the father of Shah Abdul Latif Kazmi Bari Imam [now Shakarparian] and Baghan village [now Aabpara] etc.

This jungle was located at the northern edge of the  Pothohar Plateau and at the foots of the Margalla Hills with some hilly towns like Pir Sohawa which is the highest point of Margalla Hills. Elevation of Margalla Hills is 540 meters (1,770 ft). 

The modern capital city of Islamabad now has replaced this Jungle.
Gegraphically, Islamabad and the ancient Gakhar city of Rawalpindi stand side by side and are commonly referred to as the Twin Cities, where no exact boundary exists between the two cities.

To the northeast of the city lies the hill station of Murree, and to the north lies the Haripur District of Khyber Pakhtunkhwa.  Kahuta lies on the southeast, Taxila,  Wah Cantt, and  Attock District
 to the northwest, Gujar Khan, Rawat and Mandra on the southeast, and the metropolis of Rawalpindi to the south and southwest. Islamabad is located 120 kilometers (75 mi) SSW of Muzaffarabad, 185 kilometers (115 mi) east of
 Peshawar, 295 kilometers (183 mi) NNW of Lahore, and 300 kilometers (190 mi) WSW of Srinagar, the capital of the Indian held state of Jammu and Kashmir.
The capital city of Islamabad expanses an area of 906 square kilometers (350 sq mi). A further 2,717 square kilometers (1,049 sq mi) area is known as the Specified Area, with the Margalla Hills in the north and northeast. The southern portion of the city is an undulating plain. It is drained by the Kurang River, on which the Rawal Dam is located.

Margalla Hills are natural bodyguards of Islamabad but very few people know that these Hills are great treasure of history and have  special relations with the great victorious, Alexander the Great.
Margalla Hills have the honor to welcome Alexander the Great in this area.
History tells us that once; Margalla Hills and its surrounding areas are core points of ancient Gandhara Civilization. This area has rich archeological   background.

There is a trail which is going towards heights of Margalla from village Shah Allah Ditta. Muslim ruler of India, Sher Shah Suri constructed a “Bawli” [water well] on this trail to facilitate travelers as well as residents of the village but now this well is in dilapidated condition and no department of capital is willing to repair it.

“Lousar Bawli” is located in Haripur district of Khyber-Pakhtunkhaw province. It is also said that once this trail was a road for trade caravans coming to Rawalpindi from Kabul, Afghanistan via Taxila.
Near this bawli, another historical place “Buddha Caves” are located which are called “Shah Allah Ditta Caves” also.
Historians and researchers have declared that these caves are part of Gandhara Civilization and high priests and followers of Buddhism used these 2500 years old caves for their prayers “Gayan”.
Some yards away from these caves, shrine of Shah Allah Ditta is situated who was alive in Mughal Era. A large number of followers of Shah Allah Ditta still come here from different parts of the country annually.   
According to historians, Alexander the Great also used this way to enter subcontinent around 326 BC. Raja Ambhi of Taxila welcomed Alexander the Great near these caves on ancient Kabul-Rawalpindi Highway. A stony throne is can also be seen here which was possibly used for welcome ceremony of Alexander the Great.
Near this throne and caves there was a garden namely “Sadhoo Garden” but now only remains of this garden can be seen. Time has destroyed this beautiful site but it is heard that new civil administration is now stepping ahead to restore this ancient heritage. 
   






Monday 20 February 2012

BALUCHISTAN ON THE ROCKS


Proposed map of Greater Baluchistan


It is fact that Baluchistan is on the rocks now … but it should be in your mind that situation of this particular area is being controlled from outside. You know that another Baluchistan is already exists in Iran and apart from the language, culture, race and other traditions are same of both Baluchistans as FATA. It is also on record that in past Iran regularly claimed on Pakistani Baluchistan as its part. Situation was same as India and Kashmir but Pakistani Government settled this issue with Iran under a silent accord that no efforts should be made for oil exploration in Pakistani Area of Baluchistan. This is an open fact that Baluchistan has extra ordinary oil reserves beneath its soil so when Iran accepted these offer then secret efforts begun in Baluchistan to cut it off from Pakistan.
It is accepted that we are not fair with Baluchistan like East Pakistan. We used all their sources but never gave them right of governance. In Baluchistan we are using each and every thing but not returning a single penny. OK … I accept that Sardars are responsible for this situation but we have to look at ourselves also. For example … We never pay due royalty of that natural gas which is known as SUI GAS in all over Pakistan because it firstly explored from Sui, Baluchistan.
Proposed Flag of Greater Baluchistan
Now we are crying that Baluchistan is trying to escape from our hands but fact is this, when Nawab Akbar Bugti was murdered in cold blood, we lost Baluchistan completely and now Balochs will never accept any offer other than Independence.
It may be recalled that Greater Baluchistan is not a new project. American Think Tanks have planned it years ago and waited for right time.
Now they are going for killing two birds with one stone. America is head to head with Iran now a day. Firstly that will create unrest in Pakistani Baluchistan and the same movement will be created in Irani Baluchistan after this. I don’t know what the hell is thinking our leadership about Baluchistan but if the situation continues then be ready for another FALL LIKE DHAKA …. 
   

Monday 30 January 2012

ROHTAS FORT ... Pride of Pakistan




       
Rohtas - yet another historical landmark of Pakistan built in the 16th century by none other than the mastermind of the Grand Trunk Road - Sher Shah Suri, the then Muslim ruler of India. The fort was built mainly to block re-entry route of the deposed Mughal emperor Humayun who had fled to Iran after his defeat at battle of Chausa, to intimidate the local Ghakkar tribes, who were friends of the Mughal and also as a military base. The work started in 1541 AD and completed in 9 years. There are many estimates in various scripts as far its cost of construction is concerned. Some place it around Rs. 3,425,000, while a Persian script puts the cost of construction and maintaining an army at around Rs. 110,107,975. At one place it says that one gold coin ("Ashraffi") was given for each brick that was placed.    
The entrance to Rohtas Fort is through a 20 feet high stone gate leading to yet another gate by a sharp left turn to avoid ramming into the fort by the enemy troops.
Entering the second gate, there is a government owned school, on the wall of which there are two plaques; one describing the history of the area and the fort, and the second showing the history of the school, which was established in 1856.
Rohtas had never taken by storm and has survived intact to the present day. The main fortifications of the fort consist of the massive walls, which extend for more than 4 km and are lined with bastions and pierced by monumental gateways.  The fort has 68 bastions and 1956 battlements. Fort walls measure up to 12.5 meters in thickness and up to 18.28 meters in the height. The fort stands on a hill 130 feet above ground and is set on a ridge protected on its southern side by a deep ravine, overlooking Kahan River. The fort's perimeters were designed strategically to utilize the natural ravines, which, together with about a kilometer of the riverside, act as natural moats for the defensive system.
The fort has 12 Gates but Sohail Gate is really has a majestic look. It is named after a saint who is buried just adjacent to the right side of the gate. While peeping outside on the high mountain on the sky line, one can imagine viewing the Tilla Jogian which is attributed the famous love tale HEER RANJHA. It not only provided a panoramic view of the surroundings and the fort, but also the remnants of living area, which had been used by the British as guest rooms later in the 19th century. There are shows the bays located inside the rampart which were once used for spilling molten oil on the intruding enemies - napalm bomb of modern days. It is very important that Rohtas fort ranks 67th in the list of archaeological sites under the patronage of the World Heritage Foundation.
   

The Citadel building bifurcate the fort from the rest of the fort, indicating beginning of the area for the royalties and chieftains. Interestingly, there is no living quarter in the entire fort. It is said that whenever the royalties visited the fort, the lived in tents. However, later in the Emperor Akbar's times, one his Hindu general Man Singh got himself built a "haveli", known as "man Singh Haveli" of which only a portion remains. Likewise there is a "Rani Mahal" probably for the wife of Man Singh. Above left from Rani    


Mahal, the Shah Chandwali Gate is also visible. The myth goes that saint Chandwali worked as a mason and never charged a penny for his labor. In recognition of his services, the gate was named so. The saint is buried just on the side of the gate, where his grave is still present today.
Moving from the Man Singh Haveli downwards, the track bifurcates, one leading to the Shahi Mosque, the Shahi Gate and the Baoli (stepped well) and the other to the Sheeshi Gate and the Langar Khani Gate. Haibat Khan, a trustworthy soldier of Sher Shah built the mosque of white sandstone in 1543 AD, which lies to the west of the fort. There is also a mausoleum, perhaps Habsh Khan, the superintendent of works of Sher Shah.
The Kabuli Gate and the Baoli (Stepped Well): Adjacent to the Shahi Mosque is the Kabuli Gate since the gate is in the direction of Kabul, Afghanistan and sometimes also called the Shahi gate for its closeness to the mosque. Its central arch is 3.15 meters with two bastions on both sides. These are decorated with diamond-shaped brick fret masonry work. The gate also has five battlements. There also is a Baoli with stepped chambers for bath of the royalties. It has 60 steps leading down to the water.
The Sheeshi Gate: Sheeshi Gate is known for the blue glazed tiles which once decorated its entrance from the Langar Khani gate side. Word "sheeshi" is derived from Urdu word "Sheesha" meaning glass.  There are two bastions on either side of the gate. The inner portion of the bastions has Islamic calligraphic inscriptions in "Naksh" style.  Once can observe the Kahan River and the valley and its approach from Peshawar from one of the bastions. There also is a inscription in Persian on the left of the gate. The inscription gives details of the date of the date of building of the fort. The mention of Islamic year 948 corresponds to 1541 AD. Its translation reads:
This stepped well is awesomely deep located in the area of common soldiers' abode. It has some 148 steps which lead the way to its base, made of natural lime rock. Those with a delicate heart may not feel comfortable looking down to its greater depth from the top retaining wall.


Rohtas Fort or قلعہ روہتاس or Qila Rohtas is a garrison fort built by the great Afghan king Sher Shah Suri. This fort is about 4 km in circumference and the first example of the successful amalgamation of Pashtun and Hindu architecture in the Indian Subcontinent.
Sher Shah Suri named Qila Rohtas after the famous Rohtasgarh Fort in Shahabad district near  BaharkundaBihar which he captured from the Raja of Rohtas Hari Krishan Rai in 1539. Rohtasgarh is situated on the upper course of the river Son. It was built by Harish Chandra of the solar dynasty and was named after his son Rohitasva after whom the fort (Rohtasgarh) was named.
Sher Shah constructed Qila Rohtas to block Emperor Humayun's return to India after defeating him in the Battle of Kanauj. This fort lies on the old GT road between the Norths (Afghanistan) to the Plains of Punjab. It blocked the way from Peshawar to Lahore. The other reason was to suppress the local tribe of this region Potohar called Gakhars who were allies of Humayun and refused their allegiance to Sher Shah Suri. The Emperor instructed the local Janjua Rajput tribe to help construct the fort to crush the Gakhars when the latter became openly defiant and persecuting labourers who attended the construction.
The Fort was built by Todar Mal under orders of Sher Shah.
Sher Shah threatened to construct such a fort in that country that it should not only effectually restrain the Ghakkars, but also the passage of the Mughals. He therefore himself made a tour through the hills of Girjhák Ninduna [mountains circumjacent], * and finding a fit spot, he laid the foundations of the fort, which he called Rohtás.
Besides that, he sent a large force against Ráí Sárang, the Ghakkar, and not only was the country subdued, and the hill of Balnáth plundered, which was then the residence of the Dárogha of that tract, but the daughter of its chief was taken prisoner, and conducted before Sher Shah, who presented her to Khawás Khán; upon which Ráí Sárang, they relate, sent a quantity of [hemp] blankets and millet to Sher Sháh, with the remark that in such only consisted their raiment and food, besides which they could afford nothing; according to others, he sent a lion's skin and some [arrows] spears, which he said was their only property. With this conduct, however, Sher Sháh was by no means satisfied. Sárang [Sárang's troops] being weakened by [skirmishes] the attacks of the holy warriors, and greatly reduced and straitened, submitted himself in person to Sher Sháh, who ordered him to be flayed alive, and his skin to be filled with straw, and so pay the penalty of his misdeeds.
Sher Sháh issued farmáns to complete the fortifications of Rohtás; but Todar Khatri represented that the Ghakkars, to whom that country belonged, would not allow any one to work for wages; and that they had agreed amongst themselves, upon oath, to expatriate every person that should contravene their wishes. Sher Sháh, in answer, told him [that he should not be allowed to give up that work, which he only wished to do in consequence of his greediness for gold]* that the work did not seem to advance under his superintendence, and that a man who was fond of money, and was alarmed about disbursing it, would never accomplish the king's designs.
Todar, on the reception of this fresh command, fixed first a golden ashrafí as the enormous remuneration for one stone, which induced the [Kakers] Ghakkars to flock to him in such numbers that afterwards a stone was paid with a rupee, and this pay gradually fell to five tankas, till the fortress was completed.
Qila Rohtas is situated in a gorge approximately 16 km NW of Jhelum and 7 km from Dina. It was constructed on a hillock where the tiny Kahan River meets another rainy stream called Parnal Khas and turns east towards Tilla Jogian Range. The fort is about 300 feet (91 m) above its surroundings. It is 2660 feet (818 m) above sea level and covers an area of 12.63 acres (51,100 m2).
Qila Rohtas is a garrison fort and could hold a force of up to 30,000 men. Due to its location, massive walls, trap gates and 3 Baolis (stepped wells) it could withstand a major siege although it was never besieged.
Most of the fort was built with ashlar stones collected from its surrounding villages such as Tarraki village. Some parts of the fort were built with bricks.
The fort is irregular in shape and follows the contours of the hill it was constructed on. The fort is exactly 5.2 km in circumference. A 533 metre long wall divides the citadel (for the Chieftain) from other parts of the fort.
The fortification has 68 bastions (towers) at irregular intervals. Out of the 3 Baolis, one of them is in the citadel and the rest are in the other parts of the fort. One of the Gates (Langar Khani) opens into the citadel and is a trap gate because it is in the direct line of fire of the bastions.
The Khwas Khani gate is an example of double walling. A small enclave on the western side is a citadel within a citadel. It is accessible by only one gate and also had a very fine Baoli which suggests that it was meant for the Chief and his family. In this citadel there is a beautiful Mosque called the Shahi Mosque (Not to be confused with the one in Lahore). There are no palaces in the Fort except for a structure built by Raja Man Singh called the Haveli of Man Singh. It is built on the highest point of the citadel.
The work on this fort was started in 1541 with Todar Mal Khatri, the revenue minister in charge of the project. The Gakhars whose area the fort was built on refused to provide labor for this project.
Todar Mal faced with such problems informed Sher Shah about these difficulties who wrote in reply,” I know you for a man of business, understanding and intelligence. I see no work can be expected from you, because you consider money as your friend. When I have commanded you to do a thing you ought not to have cared for money in fixing the rate. Whatever be the expenses shall be borne by my government.”
After receiving this reply, he fixed one red Ashrafi for each slab on the first day. The rate gradually decreased to one Paoli or Bahluli. Because of the boycott the cost of construction was huge. It would have been much lower had it not been for the Ghakkars. The following sources all give slightly different estimates of the cost

Waqiat-i-Jahangiri says the cost was Rs. 34, 25,000. It refers to an engraved stone over the Shishi Gate which reads
“The amount is 16, 10, 00,000 Dams and something more, which is 34, 25,000 Rupees of Hindustan, 120,000 Tumans of Iran or 1,21,75,000 Khanis of Turan”.
According to Tarikh-i-Daudi, its cost is 80,505,002 Dams (Bahlulis).
Choa Sahib (Sikh Shrine outside the fort)..... The choa (the fountain discovered by Guru Nanak) lies outside the fort. Shershah Suri tried to cover it for the use of water by his military. He built the wall around it to take it inside. But every time he tried to cover, the choa miraclusly went outside the wall of the fort. He tried 7 times. Finally he gave up.The height of the outer wall varies between 10 and 18 meters. Its thickness varies between 10 and 13 meters. The wall has 2 or 3 terraces and varies in thickness, the maximum being 13 meters near the Mori Gate. The terraces are linked by staircases. The topmost terrace has merlon-shaped battlements. Muskets can be fired from these battlements. Soldiers could also pour molten lead over the walls.
The wall is built in sandstone laid in lime mortar mixed with brick. The gates are in grey ashlarmasonry. Some portions have been built using burnt brick.
The Rohtas Fort has the following 12 gates. All of them are built in ashlar stone.
Sohail Gate
This gate is the best example of masonry in use in the time of Sher Shah. It derives its name from a Saint names Sohail Bukhari buried in the south-western bastion of the gate. Others say that it was names after the Sohail Star which rises on this side of the fort.
It is a double gate rectangular in shape. It is 21.34 meters (70 ft) high, 20.73 meters (68 ft) wide and 15 meters (50 ft) deep. The central archway is 4.72 meters (15 ft) wide. It has an inner and an outer arch which is decorated with beautiful and simple motifs of sunflower. This decoration is repeated in all parts of the Qila.
There are balconies on either side of the central arch. These balconies have a small dome and their sides and bottom are also decorated. Unlike other parts of the Qila which has been built in Afghan-Persian style, the balcony is an example of Hindu architecture. These same balconies can be seen in Haveli Man Singh. There is a small window in the middle of the outer arch. This window is different from the two balconies to either side of the outer arch. It is much simpler that these two balconies.
There are seven merlons on this gate. The bastions are with battlements which have loopholes. These bastions have three levels on the inside. These can be seen if one zooms in the Sohail Gate picture.
The inner side of the gate mirrors the outside but has less decoration. There are no battlements towards the inside and no balconies either. The rooms in the upper storey of this gate have windows that open towards the inside of the Qila. Like the outer arch there is a small window in the middle of the inner arch. The gate now houses a Visitors information center and a Museum set up by the Himalayan Wildlife Foundation.
Shah Chandwali Gate
This gate links the citadel to the main fort. It is named after a Saint Shah Chandwali who refused to get his wages for working on this gate. The saint died while still on work and was buried near the gate. His shrine still stands to this day.
This gate is also a double gate. The outer gate, the entrance of which is from the citadel is 13.3 meters wide and 8.23 meters deep. The inner gate is a simple archway which is 3.66 meters wide.
                                                               Kabuli Gate
This gate opens to the west and is named “Kabuli” because it faces Kabul. It is a double gate and its opening is 3.15 meters (10 ft) wide. It has two bastions on each side. The gate has 5 battlements on top and has stairs leading up to it from the outside. On the southern side of the gate is the Shahi (Royal) Mosque because of which many people also call it Shahi (Royal) Darwaza (Gate or Door). There is a Baoli near this gate.
Shishi Gate
The gate derives its name from the beautiful glazed tiles used to decorate its outer arch. These tiles are the earliest examples of this technique which was later refined in Lahore. These tiles are blue in color.
An inscription on the left side of the gate gives the date of construction of the fort. The inscription is in Persian and is translated as follows In the Hijri Year 948 came the exalted at that time constructed the great fort the emperor is Sher, with long life
there is no match to his good fortune it was completed by Shahu Sultan. The Hijri year 948 is 1541 CE.
Langar Khani Gate
It is a double gate 15.25 meters (50 ft) high, 3.5 meters (11.5 ft) wide with a central arched opening. The oouter arch has a small window like the Sohail Gate. The outer opening leads to a Langar Khana (Mess or Canteen). There are two bastions on either side of the gate which have kitchen, stores and a well for water. The opening of this gate is L shaped. As soon as one enters from the outer gate one has to turn right.
Talaqi Gate
This gate is 15.25 meter high and 13.8 meter wide with two bastions on either side. This gates name derives from “Talaq” (divorce). According to a legend, Prince Sabir Suri entered the gate and had an attack of fever which proved fatal. This was regarded as a bad omen and the name became “Talaqi”.
Mori or Kashmiri Gate
The gate opens to the north and faces Kashmir. This gate opens into one chamber which opens into another.

Khwas Khani Gate
This gate is named after one of Sher Shah Suri’s greatest general, Khwas Khan. This was the original entrance to the Qila (Fort) because outside the gate lies the old GT Road.
It is a double gate. The outer gate is 12.8 meter wide (42 ft) and 8 meter (26 ft) deep. This gate has a bastion and a defensive wall on each side. On the bastions canons could be deployed. The inner and outer gates are almost mirror images of each other. The top of the gate has five battlements. All of these have loopholes as well as machicolation. Unlike other gates of this Qila, the inner side of the gate has five battlements.
The inner and outer arches have sunflower motifs like the Sohail Gate. The gate also has a room which has windows opening to the inside and the outside.
It is pertinent to mention here that when the Gakhars refused their allegiance to Sher Shah Suri, he launched an expedition to punish them. This resulted in the capture of the Gakhar chiefSarang Khan and his daughter. Sarang Khan was then killed. His daughter was then married to Sher Shah’s favourite general Khwas Khan.
Gatali Gate
It is a single gate 9.15 meter high and 6.1 meter deep. This gate faces to the village GataliFord(ravine) which is called also Patan Gatiali or Gatiyalian, the important point to cross the River Jhelum for the Kashmir Vally, thus the name.
Tulla Mori Gate
This is an entrance rather than a gate. It is on the eastern side of the fort. It is about 2 meters wide. There is a bastion next to this entrance.
Pipalwala Gate
This is a small entrance like the Tulla Mori Gate. It is 2.13 meter wide.
Sar Gate
This is a small entrance. There is a bastion next to this gate. There is a Baoli next to this gate. It is called “Sar” because “Sar” means water.
Shahi Mosque
This small mosque is near the Kabuli gate. It has a prayer chamber and a small courtyard. It is the most decorated of the original buildings of the fort. To be ever ready in case of attack, stairs lead directly from the courtyard of this mosque to the top of Kabuli Gate.
The prayer chamber is 19.2 meter long and 7.3 meter deep. It is divided into 3 equal chambers. There are domes from the inside but from the outside no domes can be seen. There is a small room at the end of these three chambers. This room was for the Pesh Imam (Prayer Leader). This room has a small domed roof from the inside but no outer dome. There is no place for ablution(cleaning up before prayers) in the mosque. This mosque is built into the fortification wall i.e. soldiers walked over the mosque's roof. The outer wall of the mosque is the fortification wall itself.
On the outer wall of the mosque are beautiful round designs in which Islamic verses are written inNaqsh script. These verses are surrounded by a Lilly going around the Naqsh script. The Lilly design was later used by Mughals in Tomb of Jahangir, Tomb of Nur Jehan and the Shah Burj Gate in Lahore Fort. The design seems to have been copied from the coins used in that time.
Baolis
There are 3 Baolis in the fort. These were made by cutting deep into the lime rock. They are
The Main Baoli
It is in the middle of the Fort for soldiers, elephants, horses etc. This Baoli has 148 steps. Each step is 20 cm (8 inches) wide. The upper portion has been cut in stone. It has three arches that span the length of the baoli.
The Shahi Baoli
It is near the Kabuli Gate for the Royal family. It has 60 steps and has small chambers that were used as baths by the Royal family.
Sar Gate Baoli
A small Baoli near the Sar Gate, most likely used by soldiers
Rani Mahal
The Rani Mahal (Queens’s palace) is near Haveli Man Singh. It is a one storey structure. It originally had four rooms but only room remains standing today. The foundation of the four rooms can still be seen today.
It is not an original part of the fort and is an example of Hindu architecture and built around the same time as the Haveli Man Singh.
The room still standing today is about 20 feet (6.1 m) high and beautifully decorated on the inside and outside. The roof of the dome like room is like a flower. The inside of the roof is decorated with flowers, geometrical patterns and fake windows. The room is about 8 feet (2.4 m) by 8 feet (2.4 m).
Decorative features
This fort is an example of purely “Masculine” architecture. It places function over form. This can be gauged from the fact that the fort originally had no permanent building for living.
Stone carvings
These carvings are found on the gate and in the mosque. Most of these are engravings in Arabic and sunflowers.
One of these carvings is inside the Shahi Mosque outside the Pesh Imam's (Prayer leaders) room. The carving is of the word "Allah" (God) in Arabic. The same carving is also done on merlons on top of Shahi Mosque.
The sunflower motif is on each sides of the arches of Shahi Mosque. It is also present in the guard post in between each gate.
Calligraphic inscriptions
Most of these inscriptions are on the Shahi Mosque. On the outer wall of the mosque the “Kalima” is written in beautiful calligraphy on both sides of each arch of the Shahi Mosque. The Naskh script is used.
There is an inscription in Persian on the Shishi gate which gives the date of start of construction. The same inscription is also found over the Talaqi gate.
There are other inscriptions on the Khwas Khani, Langar Khani and Gatali gate.
Glazed tiles … These tiles are found on Shishi gate. This type of tile became extremely popular with the Mughals who further refined them. The tiles on Shishi gate are the earliest example of the usage of these tiles. These tiles were made in Lahore.
Plaster … has been used in the Shahi Mosque.
Machicolations are small drains that lead from the inside to the walls outside. They are built into the walls and are used by the soldiers on the inside to pour molten lead or other hot liquids on soldiers trying to scale the walls. The Rohtas fort has hundreds of them and each one is beautifully decorated with geometric patterns.
Architectural Style
This fort was built in the Afghan-Persian architectural style. Afghans and Persians Kings had been coming to the Indian subcontinent for at least 5 centuries before the construction of this fort. Before the construction of this fort, the combination of these styles had not been harmonious. Qila Rohtas is the earliest example of the successful mixing of these two styles with the Afghan style being more prominent. The elements of Hindu architecture are; Balconies on Sohail Gate … Decorations on Shahi Mosque derived from Hindu architecture … Haveli Man Singh (Pure Hindu architecture) … The elements of Afghan architecture are … Utilitarian construction … Use of stone instead of bricks in building wall … No living quarters … Comparatively less decoration
Sher Shah Suri died before the completion of this magnificent structure. Ten years after Sher Shah’s death and the end of the Suri dynasty, Emperor Humayun returned to rule India for another 15 years.
When Humayun returned the Governor of Rohtas, Tatar Khan Kasi fled. Ironically, Rohtas then became the capital of the Gakhars, the very people it was designed to crush.
This fort was never popular with the Mughals because of its military character. Emperor Akbar stayed here for a single night. Emperor Jahangir rested here for a single night while going to Kashmir for a rest. He said the following about its location
This fort was founded in a cleft and the strength of it cannot be imagined
Emperor Jahangir again stayed here when he was being forced to go to Kabul by Mahabat KhanNur Jahan, his beautiful and resourceful wife obtained troops from Lahore and ordered Mahabat Khan to release her husband. Emperor Jahangir then proceeded to Rohtas and held his court here for a while. Then he went onto Kashmir and back to Lahore to die.
The later Mughals seem to have made no use of the fort. The reason is that they were allies of the Gakhars and consequently needed no troops to maintain their hold over this area.
After the takeover of the Punjab by the Sikhs, the Maharaja Ranjit Singh gave the fort to Sardar Mohar Singh who was succeeded by Gurmukh Singh. It was subsequently leased to different people and the last people to manage Rohtas were Raja Fazal Din Khan who joined Sher Singh in rebellion.
Most of the fort is in a very good state of preservation. In the portions that have fallen away (Haveli Man Singh) one can still see some part of the original construction.
The central archway of the Chandwali Gate has been rebuilt recently so that is the only “fake” part of the fort.
World Heritage Site … Qila Rohtas was designated a World Heritage Site in 1997. Here is what the World Heritage list (Document 586) says on page 3 of the report, that this property be inscribed on the World Heritage List on the basis of criteria II and IV:
Rohtas Fort is an exceptional example of the Muslim military architecture of central and South Asia, which blends architectural and artistic traditions from Turkey and the Indian sub-continent to create the model for Mughal architecture and its subsequent refinements and adaptations.
Himalayan Wildlife Foundation …The Rohtas Fort Conservation Program was conceived by the Himalayan Wildlife Foundation in 2000 to help protect the sixteenth-century Rohtas Fort near Jhelum, and develop it as a heritage site conforming to international standards of conservation and tourism. It is undertaking the following projects in conjunction with the Royal Norwegian Embassy … Complete restoration of Shah Chandwali Gate … Conservation of Haveli Man Singh …. Conservation of Talaqi Gate and Gatali Gate … Establishment of Sher Shah Suri Museum in upper storey of Sohail Gate …. Improvement of quality of life in Rohtas Fort village
How to visit from Islamabad …. The dual-carriage Grand Trunk Road takes you past Gujar Khan and Sohawa, to the small town of Dina 130 km away. Just past Dina you will drive over a railway overpass, stay to the right of the road and take the first U-turn to drive back towards Dina. After about 100 meters to your left you will find a signpost, which indicates the way towards the road leading to Rohtas Fort which is 8 km away, past the small holy village of Muftian home to the Mufti Tribe. Drive on the road to enter into the fort and keep driving till you reach the parking area.
From Lahore … Drive on G.T road past GujranwalaWazirabad and the city of Jhelum. About 10 minutes drive beyond the Jhelum bridge just short of the city of Dina, you will find a signpost to the left directing you to Rohtas Fort.




Sunday 29 January 2012

WATER ... The Basic Element of Creation



بسم اللہ الرحمان الرحیم
In the name of Allah, the Most Beneficent, the Most Merciful

I am pleased to present my paper on water which is not only the beginning of the Universe but also the First Creation. Water is a gift from Allah … really a very precious gift. We all are not only created from water but also we need water to survive …. And the water comes only from Allah, God or Bhagwan …
Allah says in Sura Al-Anbiya ayah 30 that: Have not those who disbelieve that the heavens and the earth were joined together as one united piece and then we parted them? And we have made every living thing from water. Will they not then believe?
The Quranic account of the forming of the Cosmos places great emphasis on water, as demonstrated in other ayah. In Sura Al-Rum, Allah told us that: "We have sent down blessed water from the sky and we grow gardens with it as well as grain to be harvested and soaring palms which have compact clusters as sustenance for worshippers. We have revived a dead countryside with it; thus will your reappearance be".
The Vedas praise water as the source of everything in the universe. It is clearly mentioned in Mahan Arayana Upanishad 4.29 that the whole universe is made up of water. All beings are made up of water. The vital airs are the effects of water, cows are also effect of water; food comes from water; nectar, too, comes from water; all the kingdoms, cosmos, Vedic meters, all are made of water; water is truth and all the deities are water; all the worlds are made up of water. 
Bible also has strong and numerous evidences that water is a reward of God for humanity. There are more than 107 verses in which Allah described importance of the water.
According to Al-Bukhariyy, when the holy prophet, Hazrat Muhammad Sallallahu Alayhi wa-aalhi wa-sallam, was asked how this universe started to exist, he said, Allah existed eternally and nothing else existed with him. He created the Arsh, the throne and placed it above the water. Then He ordered the pen to write in Loh-e-Mahfouz, the Guarded Tablet every thing that would happen. Then Allah created the heavens and earth.
With reference of another narrator of Hadees, Ibn-e-Hibban, Hazrat Muhammad Sallallahu Alayhi wa-aalhi wa-sallam said that the first creation is water and Allah created every thing from water.
It is also proved that water has played a vital role in various civilizations which historically flourished around rivers and major waterways; Mesopotamia, the so-called cradle of civilization, was situated between the major rivers Tigris  and  Euphrates; the ancient society of the Egyptians depended entirely upon the Nile. Large  metropolises like RotterdamLondonMontrealParisNew York City, Buenos AiresShanghaiTokyoChicago, and Hong Kong owe their success in part to their easy accessibility via water and the resultant expansion of trade. Islands with safe water ports, like Singapore, have flourished for the same reason.
Moreover water is taken as a role model in traditional and popular philosophy. The Ancient Greek philosopher Empedocles held that water is one of the four classical elements along with fire, earth and air, and was regarded as the basic substance of universe. The classical element of water was also one of the five elements in traditional Chinese philosophy, along with earthfirewood, and metal.
Please let me mention here some kinds of water which has religious and angelic significance amongst different faiths.
First is AAB-E-ZAMZAM which considered divine water. All traditions agree that Allah created the Zamzam well to provide Hajira, the wife of Prophet Ibrahim and her baby Prophet Ismail with water in the hot, dry valley they were in, around the year 2000 BC.
115 feet deep Zamzam well is located approximately 66 feet east of the Kaaba in Makah. The miracle water of Zamzam is still flowing until today. Hazrat Muhammad Sallallahu Alayhi wa-aalhi wa-sallam said: "The best water on the face of the earth is the water of Zamzam; it is a kind of food and a healing from sickness."
Scientists have found certain peculiarities that make the water healthier, like a higher level of calcium. A Japanese researcher Masaru Emoto has had a unique experience. He said the quality and purity of Zamzam water has, will not be find any where else in the water on this earth. He used the technology named NANO, and researched a lot on Zamzam water. And found out that if one drop of Zamzam water mix in 1000 drops of regular water, regular water will get the same quality like Zamzam water.
He also found that a mineral in one drop of Zamzam water has its own importance that will not be find any other water on this earth. He also found in some tests that the quality or ingredients of Zamzam water can not be changed, why; science does not know the reason. Even he re-cycled the Zamzam water, but no change it was still pure. This scientist also found out that, the Muslims says Bismillah before eating or drinking. He says that after saying BISMILLAH on regular water, there are some strange changes happened in its quality. He also found out that if some one recites the Quran on regular water, it gets the ability for the treatment of different diseases.
The second significant water is The Great Flood Water which still exists on the earth. Many researchers believe that the oceans are actually remaining water of Noah’s flood which is best known through the  biblical and  Quranic accounts, the foundational myths of the Quiché and Mayas, through Deucalion  in Greek mythology, the Utnapishtim in Epic of Gilgamesh or the Hindu puranic  story of  Manu which has some very strong parallels with the story of Noah.
Water in Hinduism has a special place because it is believed to have spiritually cleansing powers.  To Hindus all water is sacred, especially rivers, and there are seven sacred rivers, namely the Ganges, Yamuna, Godavari, Sarasvati, Narmada, Sindhu and Kaveri. .Pilgrimage is very important to Hindus.  Holy places and Funeral Grounds are usually located on the banks of rivers, coasts, seashores and mountains.  The Ganges River is the most important of the sacred rivers.  Its waters GANGAJAL are used in puja (worship) and if possible a sip is given to the dying. 
No ceremony, from birth to death, is complete and perfect without Gangajal. According to Maharishi Vedvyas the only way to fight the malefic effects of the Kalyuga, the holy water of Ganga should be used in all the religious ceremonies. 
Baptism and marriage are the most important ceremonies in the life of a Sikh. It is in the form of a formal oath and initiation ceremony by which a Sikh becomes a true Khalsa, purified or chosen one. These ceremonies can not be completed without drinking of Amrit or specially prepared sweet Holy water.
Water does however feature in Buddhist funerals where it is poured into a bowl placed before the monks and the dead body.  As it fills and pours over the edge, the monks’ recitez”As the rains fill the rivers and overflow into the ocean, so likewise may what is given here reach the departed."
A term is also used as Holy water that, in Catholicism, Anglicanism, Eastern Orthodoxy,  Lutheranism, Oriental Orthodoxy, and some other churches, has been sanctified by a priest for the purpose of  baptism, the blessing of persons, places, and objects; or as a means of repelling evil. The use for baptism and spiritual cleansing is common among several religions, from Christianity  to Sikhism and Hinduism. The use of holy water as a sacramental for protection against evil is almost exclusive to Roman Catholics.
Modern science affirms clearly religion and philosophy and states that water is the basic component of life. Chemists have proven that it is a necessary and active substance used in changes and reaction which occur inside the body. For this reason it is the only fluid which every living thing needs, no matter how large or small it may be, starting with micro-organisms to the largest living animals on earth.
The main source for the human and animal body is water, as well as the plants, as it is proven by scientific analysis’s showing the body of a human adult from the age of 15 years and upwards contains approximately 71 % of water as for the child his body contains 93 % of water, which indicates 80 % of water runs through the human body and the remainder is blood, and as much as 90 % water is found in animals and plants. 
Basically, Water is a chemical substance with the H2O formula. A water molecule contains one oxygen and two hydrogen atoms connected by covalent bonds. Under nomenclature used to name chemical compounds, Dihydrogen monoxide is the scientific name for water, though it is almost never used.
Water covers 70.9% of the Earth's surface. 96.5% of the planet's water is found in oceans, 1.7% in groundwater, 1.7% in glaciers and the ice caps of Antarctica and Greenland and 0.001% in the air as vaporclouds and precipitation. Only 2.5% of the Earth's water is fresh water, and 98.8% of that water is in ice and groundwater. Less than 0.3% of all freshwater is in rivers, lakes, and the atmosphere, and an even smaller amount of the Earth's freshwater, 0.003% is contained within biological bodies and manufactured products.
Safe drinking water is essential to all life forms but more than one billion people still lack access to safe water. Observers have estimated that by 2025 more than half of the world population will be facing water-based vulnerability. The UN World Water Development Report indicates that, in the next 20 years, the quantity of water available to everyone is predicted to decrease by 30 to 40%.
At this time, Earth's approximate water volume is 1,338 million Cubic meter and 70% of the fresh water used by humans goes to agriculture because this is a key component to generate nourishment. To produce food for the 7 billion people of the planet requires the water that would fill a canal ten meters deep, 100 meters wide and 7.1 million kilometers long and that's enough to circle the globe 180 times but an assessment of water management in agriculture was conducted in 2007 by the International Water Management Institute in Sri Lanka . It found that a fifth of the world's people, more than 1.2 billion, live in areas of physical water scarcity, where there is not enough water to meet all demands.
The second important consumer of water is human body which contains from 55% to 78% water. It is not clear how much water intake is needed by healthy people, though most advocates agree that approximately 2 liters of water daily is the minimum to maintain proper hydration. 
Water plays an important role in the world economy and this factor has introduced water politics. Now, water is a strategic resource in the globe and an important element in many political conflicts. As a representative from Pakistan I must say that water politics is on extreme between Pakistan and India now a days and the base of this conflict is Indus Water Treaty which took place 52 years ago between these neighbors.   
Pakistan has an estimated 1.927422 Million acres of wetlands that cover 9.7% of the total surface area of the country. In excess of 225 significant wetlands sites are on record in the prototype Pakistan Wetlands GIS Database, of which 19 have been internationally recognized by the Ramsar Convention Bureau. Pakistan has more than 80 Rivers and one of the largest canal irrigation systems in the world which accounts for 2/3 of employment and about 80% of exports.
In Pakistan there are 3 large dams, 85 small dams, 19 barrages, 12 inter link canals, 45 canals and 0.7 million tube wells to meet the commercial, domestic and irrigational needs of the country. Similarly Pakistan is home to 32 big and more than 200 small natural and man made lakes and reservoirs. The largest lake in Pakistan is the Manchar Lake, which is also the largest in South Asia. The lake is spread over an area of over 100 square miles. The highest lake in Pakistan is the Rush Lake, which is also the 25th highest lake is the world at an altitude of over 15,420 feet.
But apart from these facts and figures, Pakistan is one of the world’s most arid countries. It ranks 127 in 141 countries with a water availability of 0.23 thousand cubic meters per capita. Pakistan’s economic and social well being is built on this water system despite the scant average annual rainfall of just 240 millimeters. Over the years, Pakistan has harnessed the Indus River to bring 35.7 million acres under irrigation to cultivate land in otherwise desert conditions. It is currently experiencing water stress and will soon face outright water scarcity. Pakistan is using almost all its water resources and no more are available. If something goes drastically wrong with the salt, sediment, water balance of the Indus system, there is no other river system in the region to draw on.
Pakistan is running out of water so fast that the shortage will strangulate all water-based economic activity by 2015, a Pakistani think tank says. In opinion of Islamabad based Centre for Research and Security Studies, Pakistan has gone from a “water scarce” country to a “water-stressed” country, worse than Ethiopia. In 10 years time, it will become a water-famine country.  Among the 25 most populous countries, South Africa, Egypt and Pakistan are the most water-limited nations that study said.
According to the World Bank data, Pakistan only stores 30 days of river water, India stores 120 days, while the Colorado River system in the U.S. has storage capacity of up to 900 days of water usage.
The population and economy are heavily dependent on an annual influx into the Indus river system of about 180 billion cubic meters of water that emanates from India and is mostly derived from snowmelt in the Himalayas. But this single river system on which Pakistan almost entirely relies has been heavily harvested and there is no additional water to be injected in to this system.
According to the most recent UN World Water Development Report, indicates an available supply of water of little more than 1,000 cubic meters per person, which puts Pakistan in the category of a high stress country.
Although about 36% of the groundwater is classified as highly saline, in urban areas, most water is supplied from groundwater except for the cities of Karachi, Hyderabad and a part of Islamabad, where mainly surface water is used but in rural areas, with saline groundwater, irrigation canals serve as the main source of domestic water.
Statistics indicates that out of the 169,384 billion Cubic Meter of water which was withdrawn in 2000, 96% were used for agricultural purposes, leaving 2% for domestic and another 2% for industrial use. By far most water is used for irrigated agriculture. The sector contributes about 25% of the Pakistan's GNP with a total irrigated area of 181,000 Sq Kilometers.
But it is an ugly truth that this agriculture based country has not its own water resources and its all water comes from India. In 1947, when Punjab was divided between the two countries, many of the canal head-works remained with India. The division of Punjab thus created major problems for irrigation in Pakistan.
On April 1, 1948, India stopped the supply of water to Pakistan from every canal flowing from India to Pakistan. Pakistan protested and India finally agreed on an interim agreement on May 4, 1948. This agreement was not a permanent solution; therefore, Pakistan approached the World Bank in 1952 to help settle the problem permanently. It was finally in Ayub Khan's regime that an agreement was signed between India and Pakistan in September 1960 which is known as the Indus Water Treaty.
This treaty divided the use of rivers and canals between the two countries. Pakistan obtained exclusive rights for the three western rivers, Indus, Jhelum and Chenab. And India retained rights to the three eastern rivers, Ravi, Beas and Sutlej.
Although the Indus Water Treaty has survived hostilities between India and Pakistan over the years, recent developments threaten to undermine this agreement. On October 10, 2008, India inaugurated Baglihar hydro-electric dam on the Chenab River, one of the western rivers given to Pakistan in the IWT. India is currently building a dam and a hydroelectric water project on River Indus at Nimzoo Bagin. Pakistan alleges the projects are a violation of the Indus Waters Treaty but India holds that it is committed to the treaty.
Despite from Pak India claims, in fact the water is Life …. And its true, when you save water, you save life and I hope that with good decisions we will save our future which lies behind water. Violations and problems can be solved and drastic situations can be controlled … but with a soft touch. I also would like to conclude my paper with lively strokes. Let’s see that what some poets have said about this basic substance of our life … 
Please see this desire …
پانی دِیاں چّھلاں ہوون ، توں ہوویں تے مَیں ہوواں
پیار دِیاں گلاں ہوون ، توں ہوویں تے مَیں ہوواں

And this cry
آ کر لے جائے  میری آنکھ کا پانی مجھ سے
کیوں حسد کرتی ہے دریا کی روانی مجھ سے
صرف اِک شخص کے غم میں مجھے برباد نہ کر
روز  روتے  ہوئے کہتی  ہے جوانی  مجھ  سے

At the end please grant me permission to say some thing in prose …
پانی آسماں کی طرف اٹھے تو بھاپ
آسماں سے نیچے گرے تو بارش
جم کر گرے تو اولے
 گِر کر جمے تو برف
پھولوں کی پتی پہ گِرے تو شبنم
پھولوں سے نکلے تو عرق
جمع ہو جائے تو جھیل
گنگناٴے تو جھرنا ، ابلے تو چشمہ
بہے تو دریا اور ٹہرے تو سمندر
آنکھوں سے نکلے تو آنسو
جسم سے نکلے تو پسینہ
حضرت اسمعیل علیہ السلام کے قدموں سے نکلے تو آبِ زم زم
پیارے محمد صلی اللہ علیہ وآلہ وسلم کی انگلیوں سے نکلے تو آبِ کوثر ۔۔۔۔۔

May Allah Bless You All …
Thank you so much …




References:
Tareekh Ka Safar by Zulfiqar Arshad Gilani
Tareekh Al- Masoodi ( Marawwaj Al-Zahab wa Muawin Al-Jawaher) by Abu Al-Hassan bin Hussain bin Ali Al-Masoodi
Tareekh Ibn-e Khuldun by Allama Abdul Rehman Khuldun
Tareekh-e Tibiri by Allama Abu Jaffar Jareer-ul-Tibiri
Tafheem-ul-Quran by Syed Abu-ul-Alla Moudoodi
Tafseer-ul-Quran by Moulana Abdul Majid Daryabadi
The Holy Bible
Fresh Water in Ocean Depth, by Ir. H. Bambang Pranggono, MBA